Street Dining in Seoul

After I checked into my hotel in Namdaemun, I walked around for supper. There was a street nearby full of bars (the karaoke type) and Korean BBQ restaurants. 

There were also a few tarpaulin enclosed marquees on the street. When I peeked in, they were food stalls with seating and the owners cook fresh seafood and meats. As I walked past an empty stall, I received an exuberant greeting from a female owner.

I kept walking but remembered my previous experience buying food from a street vendor. It was nearly impossible to get someone's attention. Even after standing patiently with cash in hand, I felt like they were too embarrassed by the language barrier. That's why I decided to give this lady a chance and take on a new experience eating on the street.

When I returned the lady who greeted me had a new customer and his date. I asked if he spoke English, he said yes and translated for me. After perusing the ingredients on display (some not recognisable) I picked a large clam and sat back to watch the lady cook.

She gave me bowl of complimentary soup and cucumber and onions with chili paste. She prised open my clam and cut it up in small pieces. On a sheet of foil, she grilled it with sauces and spices. I guess there was no access to running water. 

As I waited for my food, I noticed the whole dining area and cookspace was on a car trailer. And there were packets of spicy Shin Ramyun noodles available to go with your meal.

Paper napkin dispenser above your head for convenience.

I also ordered what I thought were chicken liver skewers but I think it was actually beef. It was really tasty.

When I got up to pay I asked the guy to ask her how much I owed. 

At first he said 3,000 WON and then he did a double take and said "30,000!" like he was shocked. 13,000 would have sounded right but the equivalent of 17 GBP by street food standards was expensive. (A bowl of noodle soup with meal and vegetables is 6,000 WON.)

I just gave her the money and there was a stony silence as everyone watched me take the cash out of my purse. 

Parched as I did'nt have a drink, I bought a can of Calpis for 1,000 WON from a convenience store. Either I ordered the most expensive food choices or I was ripped off because I was a tourist. My fault for not asking how much everything was from the beginning. I know it's not a lot of money but since being scammed EUR 50 in Rome once, I have been hell bent against being ripped off. 

I walked down the street and saw men just standing around for seemingly no reason. There were a few drunks so I left the street and walked around Namedaenum. It was after 10pm, freezing and I noticed an old lady pulling an empty trolley, similar one my Mum takes grocery shopping. She jaywalked across the multi laned road and a bus driver at the red light pointed at her in disbelief.

When I crossed the street, I approached her and gave her my empty can. She was going through the rubbish bins for recyclables. In this cold weather in the night and alone. She just smiled and said thank you in Korean.

And after my expensive street meal, I've never felt so humbled in this country.